1. Doe a deer, a Japanese deer…
After 5 days in Tokyo, we took the shinkansen (super fast train)
to Hiroshima, then got the ferry to Miyajima.
It’s somewhere we’d planned to go on our first trip
but we ran out of time (and money).
Miyajima is a Spirited Away-style little island
with a huge floating tori (gate) and a whole
lot of wild, tame deer… everywhere.
They’re just there crossing the road,
hanging outside your window,
sneaking up behind you while
you’re chatting or snapping pics…
After a stay in Miyajima (at an amazing ryokan (Japanese inn)
where an old Granny made my husband eat fish eyes!)
we went on to Nara… which is not far from Kyoto.
They have the world’s largest wooden building…
and oh yes a whole lot of tame, wild deer too!
We loved this warning sign about how the deer
might attack you… knock down being my favourite!
There’s something so strange about wandering
through beautiful shrines and temples…
pursued by nibbly little animals!
(I’m somewhat protectively hanging
on to my green tea here!)
2. Temples, shrines, tori… oh my!
If you have time on a Japan trip, go to both
Miyajima and Nara… they’re both quite compact
in size so you can happily walk around, taking
in the sights in a relaxed manner.
(Followed by deer of course!)
Oh and see that glowy statue?
He’s the Dragon Warrior!
If you’ve watched Kung Fu Panda,
you’ll know what I mean!
As we’d been to Kyoto before, we wanted to see
some ‘new’ things… so we went to flea markets
held at temples, handmade markets at shrines,
tried our hand at Japanese printmaking,
a tea ceremony, and even went to some
temples with singing ‘nightingale’ floors.
If I tried to show you everything we did,
this would end up the hugest blog post ever!
There was one Kyoto shrine we revisited though…
the amazing Fushimi Inari shrine.
This was our favourite place in Kyoto last time.
(And that was before I noticed the fox thing!)
We originally went just as the sun was rising
(amazing!) but we didn’t want to spoil that memory
so we decided we’d go at dusk to make
sure it was as different as possible…
Turns out shrines are pretty scary
when the sun is going down!
All the pictures came out rather spooky too…
especially the one below of me
holding a fox prayer plaque.
Quite cool though, right?
If you follow me on Instagram/Twitter,
you might have spotted one of the pics
below already… yes, instead of going
geisha spotting this time…
I had a maiko makeover!
(A maiko is a geisha’s apprentice)
This was something we’d considered doing last time
but again didn’t have the time and budget for it…
I thought it sounded like something fun to do.
Actually, it’s a very serious process.
You’re not allowed to bring a camera
while they do the transformation.
But here’s what happened:
First, you have to change into a robe undergarment
and remove all make-up you’re wearing.
Then go get painted up – this was surprisingly cold!
Then someone does your make-up. There were no mirrors
so I had absolutely no idea how I looked.
Then you go to the wig room… yes that’s a wig I’m wearing.
And it’s super, super heavy. And uncomfortable.
All the adornments are then added to the wig.
The girl who did mine spent a lot of time
getting them just right.
Next comes the outfit.
Well, almost.
Turns out that geishas are meant to be sort
of ‘flat’ and I’m not. I’m hourglass-y.
So they padded me out with towels
and strapped everything else down!
Then the layers of pretty robes, belts
and sashes went on…
Walking down the narrow stairs afterwards was an experience.
I felt huge and cumbersome… not an elegant geisha!
According to my husband, I also looked rather freaked out.
This was also the moment I saw myself!
I had no idea what I thought I would look like
but I was surprised that I didn’t look like ‘me’.
(Look how tanned my arms look!)
And after all the deer, temples, foxes, geisha-ness and
a whole lot more… it was time to go back to Tokyo!
For cat cafes, shopping, and a Lost in Translation experience!
P.S. Thanks for your lovely response to the last Japan post!
Even if all the Tokyo chat makes me want to go back now!
Holy crap this is effing amazing! Zoe you look the part as a geisha!! You make me want to go to Japan so bad!!
@Convo_Pieces Your geisha look rocks 🙂
That looks like an awesome trip: amazing pictures!
Wow x a million!
Those are some violent deer then? 😉 Also Memoirs of a Zoe made me giggle! 🙂
Another brilliant post! Thanks for sharing all the fun details. I particularly love all those deer wandering around, magical!
Love your posts – Have you read the ‘Tales of the Otori’ books? The first one is called ‘Across the Nightingale Floor’ and they are absolutely fantastic (at least me and my sister think they are!)
Ooh, never heard of those Claire! Will totally have to check them out 🙂 I did attempt to walk silently over the nightingale floors and failed massively… I would not make a good ninja assasin apparently! x
That geisha transformation is blooming brilliant. And love the Gangster Deer.
Michelle recently posted..Yayoi Kusama at Tate
Michelle, I’m loving ‘gangster deer’!! That’s what I’m calling them from now on 🙂
Conversation Pieces recently posted..Japan Part 2: deer, temples, foxes… and me as a geisha
This is sooooo amazing! I’m desperate to go to Japan! Stupid recession!
Kate Eliza recently posted..Summer is dark.
Wow. So much in one post. The deer seem so cute and the temple really does look spooky and you look quite freaked out by you dressed up and I can see why – you look so different! Um. Wow. This post made me close to lost for words (not quite though!)
Siobhan recently posted..Friday Fun
Yeah it felt like a lot Siobhan – and that was with me missing loads out too! There are some pics of me when I relax a bit more about being a ‘geisha’… though I’m giggling/moving lots so the pics are all blurry! But yeah I looked nothing like I thought I would… plus I think an hour getting ready without mirrors made it a much weirder experience! x
Eeeep! I am loving your Japan posts! I am dying to go, it is one of my all time must see destinations and now I want to go even more! I could spend hours scrolling through you pictures, can’t wait for more!x
Rebecca recently posted..a littletree sneak peek…
Fabulous- these posts make me want to visit Japan so badly!
Lotts @ LottsandLots recently posted..The start of summer
Japan Part 2: deer, temples, foxes… and me as a geisha: http://t.co/lmCAi4BK
Japan Part 2: deer, temples, foxes… and me as a geisha: http://t.co/lmCAi4BK
So much to love! I need to find a way to get to Japan! You look so different as a geisha but very good too 😀
you make an amazing geisha!
Polly recently posted..Love in the mail
wowee….Japan is definately on my list of places to visit! Looks like you had an awesome time & got stuck in. Gorgeous photos too…x
This is most awesome. Love the Geisha robe.
Girl, you are a beautiful geisha! Love your stories about your trip..keep ’em coming! (I just learned by the way, that it’s very hard to find (affordable) kokeshi in Japan…isn’t that weird?!)
Marlous recently posted..Creepy crawlies garland
Thanks Marious 🙂 Yes that is rather weird… that’s true of kimonos too! (I bought my vintage kimono here for so, so, so much less than one costs in Japan!) x
amazing! you do look pretty terrified but what an experience! x
francesca recently posted..Going out alone
Hello, I’ve only just found your blog and it’s lovely! I am so jealous of your trip to Japan as I am desperate to go there – so I appreciate all the tips of where to go. Sounds like you’ve been having a great time. And that cartoon fox looks a wee bit like Patrick Moore!
It all looks amazing and I think seeing myself as a geisha would freak me out.
Love the idea of tame deer though, we should so get some over here.
Lottie Really Loves recently posted..Hello June! Hello birthday month!
Wow, this all just looks incredible. What an amazing experience!
domestikate recently posted..Watched and liked
LOVE this! Memoirs of a Zoe by @Convo_Pieces – brilliant pictures of Japan including a little geisha-ification http://t.co/eJMqpilp
LOVE this! Memoirs of a Zoe by @Convo_Pieces – brilliant pictures of Japan including a little geisha-ification http://t.co/eJMqpilp
Darling your geisha look is cool, you may wear it for permanent 🙂
This looks amazing, I am so totally jealous xx
Kerry recently posted..The Farm Yard and The Green and Black Goblers
Oh, how you make me want to visit Japan! Thank you for sharing your trip with us. I did get to visit Edenburgh once and loved it. I thoroughly enjoy your posts about that lovely city as well.
Cheers!
Leanne
That is so amazing Zoë. I am jealous of the entire trip, but you look incredible as a Geisha. I bet that was so much fun.
LOVE this! the boy and me were talking about adding japan to our travel list just the other day – this has so confirmed it! x